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What is a gift card?
The Lowe’s Gift Card is a stored value card that can be used to purchase any merchandise or service that Lowe’s sells.
Can you reload money onto the gift card?
Yes, you can reload your gift card by taking it to the customer service desk at any Lowe’s store.
Do Lowe’s Gift Cards have an expiration date or devalue over time?
Lowe’s Gift Cards do not have expiration dates or fees.
What denominations are available for Lowe’s Gift Cards?
We offer gift cards in any amount between $5 and $5,000 per card.
Does Lowe’s offer discounts on volume purchases?
We do offer volume discounts. Please refer to the corporate orders page for more information.What is the shipping time?
For standard or priority mail, please allow 3-7 business days. For Internet orders placed before 12:00 pm EST that request UPS, the package will arrive the next business day. For corporate orders, once payment is received, we will fulfill your order within 48 hours and ship per your delivery method. Can you ship to P.O. boxes?
We can ship to P.O. boxes if you select standard delivery when placing your order.Do you ship to Canada?
We currently ship only within the United States.
Can I buy a gift card online and have you send it to someone else?
Lowe’s Gift Cards can be mailed to you or directly to the recipient.
How do I check my order status?
To check your order status, call toll-free at 1-877-66LOWES, or e-mail us at Do I place a corporate gift card order?
To place a corporate order using a check, please fill out the order form and mail the check and order form together to the address at the top of the order form. If you are paying by credit card, you can fax in your order – fax number at top of order form.
Do you receive cash back on a Lowes’s Gift Card?
Lowe’s Gift Cards are declining cash balance cards. The remaining balance will remain on the card and is not available as cash.
Where can I use my gift card?
You can use your gift card to shop online at or in any Lowe’s store for any merchandise or service that Lowe’s sells.
I would like to redo my bathroom. Cannot afford big redo. I have ads for resurfacing the bathtub. Any info on whether it’s a good or bad idea?
Personally, I have reservations about “refinishing.” But, it is much cheaper than a pull-and-replace. I have heard positive feedback about “Miracle Method.” I’ve no personal experience with them, yet. A plumber I’ve known for a long time says their product is “very good.” Scope ‘em out at www.miraclemethod.com.
Most of these refinishing schemes are basically paint, epoxy or otherwise. “Ionic bonding,” “metal crosslinked co-polymers,” blah, blah, blah. They treat or etch the surface, then spray or apply the new finish. It’s just not going to be the same as kiln-fired baked-on porcelain. Presuming the surface texture is acceptable, the place most refinishing jobs seem to go bad first, in my experience, is at the edges or the drain and overflow. So, how carefully the contractor treats these areas is very important to the overall longevity of the job.
That’s not to say it’s bad stuff. It may be exactly what you’re looking for in terms of budget and aesthetics.
As with any contractor, get references and check out their workmanship, in person if at all possible. You need to see some work that has been done by the actual people that are going to do your project.
Donna of Argyle TX:
I am remodeling a bathroom, and have removed a fiberglass tub/shower unit. I am replacing with a tub, then tiling the walls above it for the shower. I am also tiling the floor, as it is stripped to the concrete. My question is, can we put the tub on the concrete, then tile up to the bottom of the tub? Or are we supposed to tile under the tub? Dumb question I know, but I haven’t done this before.
The tub gets roughed in first. Then the wall materials (drywall, Durock, etc). Then the finishes (tile, paint, etc).
Protect the tub from falling objects.
Linda of North Bend, OR:
We would like to replace an existing tub in my folks’ house with a Premier Bath, but the Vancouver, CA based company is too busy to come to the So. Oregon Coast. This tub is a walk-in tub which fills after the door is closed, and would be a much safer choice for my elderly father. (He likes baths, my mom likes showers.) Are these tubs made by antone else, or would we be able to install one ourselves, with help from a plumber? The house is on a concrete slab, and the current tub is on a raised platform and even with that floor. The master bath is very small and has a tub and shower w/sliding door.
I?ve seen the ads for Premier Bath. Any Master Plumber should be able to handle setting and plumbing that tub, provided the manufacturer provides rough-in and installation instructions. You may need a carpenter, and possibly other trades, to frame and finish the opening. Check ConsumerAffairs.Com and Google for any possible feedback about Premier Bath. Good luck, and let us know how it goes!
Michael of Lexington, SC:
What are your thoughts on the fiberglass tubs being used today? In my last house, the garden tub had a hole start and upon being repaired we were told it was not the first repair and that the tub was defective from the start.
Move forward to new house built this year (2004). Tub Doctor came to repair surface cracks on new garden tub only to find out that he says it has a defective “paint job”. We checked the other showers and have found a weak spot in the floor of a tub/shower combination that the gel coat is flaking off and I can see the fiberglass matt.
Are fiberglass tubs just cheap in general or what?
Yeah, I dont know whats happening to quality control. You think some people are getting greedy?
I believe the manufacturing process, in general, strives for standardization and mechanization. That allows for efficient manufacturing. In turn, that gives the manufacturer flexibility in profit vs. market price. High quality can be built into a process, particularly a mechanized one. I think that most manufacturers (I hope) that seek a steady nationwide market prefer to produce a high quality product, albeit as cheaply as possible. Aside from the schmucks that choose to just produce crap, the quality problems arise, I think, more in the distribution branch: stocking, shipping, handling. I imagine even the producers are skimping, but once the product is off and on its way youve got the shippers, wholesalers, retailers, contractors. All that movement!
You may have noticed how much better packaging has become in recent years. I suspect that the handlers must think that they can now throw the stuff around even harder. I?m seeing damage on high end products that I just never used to see. The last fiberglass jet tub I installed had a big chunk of the tile ledge fall off. Fortunately it was buried by the Durock and tile, but I was shocked when it happened.
I’m afraid I don’t have an answer for you at the user end, but, what’s the name of your repairman? 
Stephen of Lancaster, PA:
My wife and I just bought our first home. The house has a full bath upstairs and a 1/2 bath downstairs. The upstairs bathroom has a ventilation fan. The downstairs bathroom which is in the center of the home (not near any external walls) does not have any ventilation. The bathroom is small and always has a odor. What can we do? It would not be an easy task to run a vent outside. The odor is pretty noticeable, especially if you leave the door shut. (we have well water, but the water is clean). Any ideas/suggestions?
Pop the toilet and check the wax seal on the toilet. I?ve seen renovations where the floor level was raised slightly, but the toilet flange was not. In a couple of cases the seal was just not thick enough, so there was a gap between the porcelain and the wax. The toilet outlet projected past the wax far enough so the toilet drained and did not leak, but, because of the small gap noxious sewer gas was able to enter the room. We double-waxed the seal to solve the problem.
Well water with certain minerals in it, such as sulphur, can stink up the room, too. The water in the trap will be the culprit, in that case. You will have to consult a water conditioning expert.
Darren of Pineville MO:
I have a small home in rural Missouri, and it’s a solid house but it has old wood siding with the paint flaking off. I want to replace it with something lower maintenance, but I’m not sure I want to go with vinyl siding. I like the look of stone, but I haven’t been able to find any comprehensive comparison of different siding materials to help me determine how different materials (wood, vinyl, natural stone, faux stone) compare as far as cost, energy efficiency, etc. Would it be do-able to retrofit a wood house with stone, or would it be cost-prohibitive or otherwise ill-advised?
Could be a problem. You need to go down to your footers, and they have to be wide enough. Im sure its the expensive option of all the finishes. Your primary energy efficiency comes from the wall insulation (unless you dont have any!).
You might also want to look at some of the Hardi products.
Angelo of Lawrenceville NJ:
I am having a modular home built and I have a question about the vinyl siding they put up. There is no wood or anything underneath the first row of the siding. I can stick my hand underneath the back of the first row of siding. Is this OK? Is it fine how it is or should there be something to give it support underneath?
Call your local municipal building department and ask about that. It may be legal, but it sure is an invitation for critter or insect infiltation. First, call the builder and ask. They must have a technical department that can answer your question. Now, whether their reasoning is valid or not may depend on the local codes. Confirm with the locals. You can also call a local siding contractor and run it by them.
Exterior sheathing over the wall framing is done to keep the walls from racking. It’s handy, if plywood or OSB, for nailing siding to. The vinyl siding needs only to be lightly nailed every so often. I don’t know the exact distance allowed between fasteners, but if it is only every 16″ then the sheathing isn’t needed as a backing for the vinyl, as far as fastening is concerned.
Used to be a time when you could say you get what you pay for. Seems like now-a-days you pay more and more for less and less. Not to say the modular builder is providing anything but good value, but I’m just too cynical, anymore.
Karen of Defiance, OH:
Jim, I have often wondered, can I have siding put on a block house. My house is nice, but I’m tired of painting every 2 or 3 years.
In general, sure! Talk to a few siding contractors. Typically, nailing strips would be fastened to the block, and the siding attached to that. If a contractor suggests another system, like glue, run it by me.
